In a quiet, serene area of Glendale, a unique culinary experience is awaiting at III Mas Bakery & Deli. Located on San Fernando Road, this ghost kitchen run by Arthur Grigoryan and his wife, Takouhi Petrosyan, is now a hidden gem for Los Angeles food lovers. This compact eatery, specializing in sandwiches and baked goods, is introducing fresh cultural flavors to LA’s food scene.
Tracing Back to Armenian Roots
Arthur Grigoryan once worked at Nancy Silverton’s renowned Osteria Mozza. With this wealth of experience, he is carrying forward his cultural heritage. Leaving Osteria Mozza in 2018, Arthur began crafting recipes that blended Texas barbeque techniques with Middle Eastern flavors. However, following the conflict between Armenia and Azerbaijan in 2020, Grigoryan and Petrosyan decided to continue their culinary journey while revitalizing traditional Armenian cuisine.
Their menu, with only five offerings, reflects this dual mission. Every plate served is a harmonious blend of Armenian and American influences that captures the spirit of Los Angeles’ diverse immigrant communities. Grigoryan is particular about the ingredients, history, and presentation of every dish and this has turned simple sandwiches into soulful stories.
Sandwiches that Tell a Story
The star of this ghost kitchen’s menu is the Basturma Brisket Sandwich. It is a $21 creation that combines classic pastrami with Armenian flavors. Grigoryan uses basturma, a dry-cured meat popular in Armenia, to add a unique cultural twist. Each sandwich features thick, seasoned brisket slices topped with melted Swiss cheese, house-made pickles, and a creamy chaman spread. It is served with Russian dressing, spiced with fenugreek, paprika, and cumin.
Another hot favorite is the Morta-De-Lav-Eli. It is a playful yet delicious blend of Middle Eastern and Italian American flavors. With mortadella, labneh, crushed pistachios, and a zesty oregano vinaigrette, the sandwich is both familiar and new. It’s served on aish baladi, an Egyptian flatbread similar to pita, made using a recipe passed down from Grigoryan’s Armenian grandmother, who spent her early years in Egypt.
The choice of bread, named “the bread of life” in Arabic, emphasizes the cultural and historical significance Grigoryan aims to share. For him, bread is a symbol of resilience, something that sustains people through adversity, such as wartime or economic hardship.
Keeping Traditions Alive
The pride of III Mas goes beyond sandwiches to msalosh or lahmajoun. The circular flatbread, often likened to Armenian pizza, is topped with freshly seasoned beef and mixed vegetables, creating a deliciously satisfying meal with a crisp, pizza-like crust.
The dish is particularly close to Grigoryan’s heart as his father’s family hails from Aintab, now known as Gaziantep in Turkey, a city deeply associated with lahmajoun’s history. For Grigoryan, bringing this dish to the forefront of LA’s culinary scene honors his family’s legacy while sharing a beloved comfort food with a wider audience.
Homely Vibes in a Ghost Kitchen
Despite dreams of opening a traditional restaurant, Grigoryan and Petrosyan chose a ghost kitchen as a sustainable option amid rising costs and an uncertain economy. Working in a 200-square-foot kitchen, they offer high-quality food for pick-up and delivery.
While the setup lacks the luxury of an upscale restaurant, it allows III Mas to reach a broad audience without competition. “The ghost kitchen was the smartest decision financially so that people could get to know us,” Grigoryan explains.
Yet, there’s a longing for customer interaction that comes with a brick-and-mortar space. “There’s something to be said for the whole customer experience of dropping the food off at the table,” Grigoryan admits, but he remains hopeful believing this is just the beginning.
Preserving Culture in the LA’s Food Scene
III Mas Bakery & Deli may operate out of a ghost kitchen, but the soul and heart behind its food are resonating. With its thoughtful blend of cultural traditions and history, this humble spot in Glendale is introducing the future of Los Angeles dining with a small menu. As the ghosh kitchen continues to grow, Grigoryan and Petrosyan remain committed to celebrating Armenian heritage while embracing the eclectic spirit of Los Angeles that every food enthusiast loves.