Los Angeles is going to become the hub of mezcal culture as the city prepares to host the Mezcal Por Siempre festival on September 14, 2024. The premiere event promises to introduce the authentic flavors and traditions of mezcal to American audiences. Set to take place at L.A. River Studios in Highland Park, this festival will bring together more than 50 mezcal producers across Mexico, some of which are sharing their craft in the United States for the first time.
Ivan Vasquez, the owner and founder of Madre, is the driving force behind Mezcal Por Siempre. Madre is a popular Oaxacan restaurant with multiple locations across Southern California. A native of Valle Central, Oaxaca, Vasquez has been passionate about traditional mezcal since childhood when he helped his grandfather run a local “expando” or informal bar in their home. Now, he has dedicated his career to promoting mezcal. According to Vasquez, “There’s no better place to do this other than Los Angeles. It’s the heart of Mexico in the United States.”
The Rise of Traditional Mezcal in the U.S.
Although often overshadowed by its more famous cousin, tequila, Mezcal has gained popularity in recent years as a symbol of urban sophistication. This growing interest in mezcal has led to greater awareness about the difference between commercially produced mezcal and the traditionally made small batches that have been crafted in Mexican villages for generations.
Mezcal Por Siempre aims to educate American consumers about this distinction in a rapidly expanding industry. The U.S. market has recently seen a rising demand for mezcal compared to other liquors. This has attracted many foreign investors, particularly in Oaxaca, due to the existence of large commercial enterprises that produce mezcal.
The Environmental and Regulatory Challenges of Mezcal Production
Despite the growing demand, the mezcal market is also facing some challenges. The rising cultivation of agave plants, which is the main ingredient of mezcal, has become an environmental concern as it causes soil degradation in the drought-prone regions of Oaxaca. Although concerned about this transformation, Vasquez believes it is vital to preserve the traditional methods of producing mezcal production, which have been passed down through generations.
One key difference between traditional and commercial mezcal is the alcohol content. While commercial mezcal typically has an ABV of less than 44% and is often diluted with water, traditional mezcal can have an ABV ranging from 45% to 70% while offering a richer and more complex flavor. Traditional mezcal also uses rare agave varieties such as tobalá, madrecuishe, and papalometl, typically found in remote areas with specific climates, adding unique characteristics to the spirit.
Attendees at the festival can experience different varieties like El Tigre, made from papalote agave, which has a distinctive honeycomb flavor, and Lamata, a mezcal fermented using pulque instead of water. These offerings showcase the depth and diversity of traditional mezcal, making them stand out among the renowned commercial brands found at grocery stores.
Vasquez believes the festival will shed light on the struggles of the small mezcal producers who are often overshadowed by larger companies. Things went from bad to worse for these traditional producers when, in 2003, the Mexican Government introduced the “denomination of origin” law, which placed restrictions on mezcal production in certain states and mandated that producers should be certified by Consejo Regulador del Mezcal (CRM).
According to Vasquez, this legislation, although meant to protect the integrity of mezcal, has unknowingly sidelined age-old procedures for making it. The festival is not just an event that celebrates mezcal but also a gateway for small-scale producers to get noticed and share their experiences with a larger audience.
Being hopeful about the event’s success, Vasquez stated, “I want the next generation of young mezcaleros and mezcaleras to know there is a future for traditional mezcal in the United States,” adding, “There is light at the end of the tunnel where people can appreciate traditional mezcal. Then, that market can grow slowly by appreciating and educating them. By educating them, they’ll understand it and appreciate the families behind them.”
As Los Angeles prepares for Mezcal Por Siempre, the festival promises to be a landmark event for both mezcal enthusiasts and anyone interested in experiencing the cultural heritage of Mexico through this iconic spirit.
