Los Angeles often seems to experience the best of times and the worst of times for restaurants all at once. As Silver Lake is mourning the departure of favorites All Day Baby and Alimento, new restaurant spots are popping up almost weekly. Some of these additions include Bar Seco, serving up natural French wines and Japanese-Italian snack bites, as well as Bridgetown Roti, which brings Jamaican patties, doubles, and rotis to a now-permanent location in East Hollywood. Alongside them, the owners of Botanica have opened Bar Siesta in Alimento’s recently departed location, featuring tinned fish, sherry, Spanish wines, and a wide array of tapas.
Familiar chefs have also resurfaced in the area.
The Hummingbird Ceviche House
The Hummingbird Ceviche House is the newest concept from chef Ricardo Zarate, whose Picca has been serving upscale Peruvian dishes and creative cocktails in Beverly Hills over the past few years. Zarate’s newest venture is nestled into a former taqueria along busy Glendale Boulevard. Over 100 years ago, the block was the heart of L.A.’s early movie scene, and the modest vintage building, with rows of counter seats and a handful of tables, might have once been a café for the nearby Mack Sennett Studios.
The compact menu features an aquarium’s worth of ceviches alongside hand rolls and mains such as seafood risotto, ribeye steak, and grilled octopus. Each dish is beautifully plated, from the scallops aguachile in an aji sauce to crispy ceviche with yellowtail and crunchy corn kernels. A scallop hand roll and shrimp dumpling ceviche with sesame leaf wrappings are standouts. Beer and wine are not served, but guests can choose from purple corn iced tea or horchata, or try a Delta-9 THC hemp soda for a slight buzz.
The Hummingbird Ceviche House is located at 1600 N. Alvarado Street.
Rasarumah
Rasarumah features a modern menu with Malaysian influences. Chef Johnny Lee, of the late Pearl River Deli, leads the kitchen here. Rasarumah stands in a vintage Spanish building on a forlorn stretch of Beverly Boulevard in Historic Filipinotown. With the cozy Shim Sham Barn next door, as well as popular spots such as Woon and Crawford a few blocks away, the area is turning into an eating and drinking destination. Starters include blanched okra and eggplant (Ulam Bendi), which is presented as a jewel-like edible art piece, and a selection of perfectly grilled satays.
Other highlights include beef cheek rendang, a curry made with coconut milk, and banana leaf black cod, which rounds out the “meaty things” on the menu. The noodle dishes at Rasarumah particularly shine, with Hokkien Mee featuring Singaporean-style yellow noodles, pork jowl, and calamari, or Char Kway Teow, stir-fried rice noodles with Chinese sausage, being popular offerings. A legit wine list, sake, and shochu make Rasarumah a stylish and flavorful addition to this locale.
Rasarumah is located at 3107 Beverly Boulevard.
Tacolina
Last but not least is Tacolina. You’ve probably brunched or enjoyed cocktails in the Sunset Boulevard courtyard that houses Tacolina when it was De Buena Planta or Tintorera. Now, it is in the hands of the experienced group behind Blue Plate Tacos and Oysterette and features an accessible, elevated brunch and dinner menu of Mexican favorites—from shrimp a la diabla to mushroom tacos and silky corn chowder made with coconut milk. Festive agave-focused drinks on leafy, heated patios, decorated with Mexican art and furnishings sourced by owner Jenny Rush, make this place a popular stop. The Jaguar Room cocktail bar is also a hit.
Tacolina is located at 2815 Sunset Boulevard.
With its ever-evolving culinary landscape, Los Angeles continues to offer an exciting blend of innovation and tradition, making it a must-visit destination for food lovers from all walks of life.
